2023

The carbon footprint of tea - What are the carbon emissions when you brew a cup of tea ?

What's the carbon footprint of brewing a cup of tea?

You might think that tea is just an agricultural product and probably doesn't have much carbon emissions, perhaps only from the machinery used in tea processing or the slight carbon emissions from burning gas when boiling water for tea. However, the carbon footprint of tea is more complex than you might imagine.

How much carbon emission is produced from the tea bud to brewing a cup of tea?

To understand the carbon footprint of tea, one must grasp the concept of "product carbon footprint life cycle". Firstly, although it's called a "carbon" footprint, it actually includes emissions of various greenhouse gases, not just carbon dioxide. Different greenhouse gases have different Global Warming Potentials (GWP). This can be understood as their ability to cause the greenhouse effect compared to carbon dioxide. For example, methane (CH4) has a GWP value of about 28, meaning that emitting 1 kg of methane is equivalent to the greenhouse effect caused by 28 kg of carbon dioxide (CO2). In other words, emitting 1 kg of methane equals 28 kg of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e). Finally, the impact of all greenhouse gases is expressed in terms of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e).

Additionally, we need to understand the concept of a product's "life cycle". First, we must determine which stages need to be calculated in this cycle, what relevant emissions need to be calculated in these stages, and which emissions can be excluded. In Taiwan, the carbon footprint life cycle of tea products includes cradle-to-grave, which means from tea tree planting to the disposal of tea waste. Why is it called a cradle? You can think of it as a newborn baby sleeping in a cradle. For products, it refers to the raw materials needed for production. The raw material for tea making is simply the tea leaves harvested from tea trees. The tea tree might initially be a seed or a cutting, and we also need to include emissions from fertilizers and materials used in tea garden management. The grave, as you might guess, is the endpoint of the product. Just as humans are buried in coffins and then in graves after death, products will eventually become waste. For tea products, besides packaging waste, the used tea leaves from brewing also generate carbon emissions during waste treatment. The disposal of tea product waste is the endpoint.

Cradle-to-Grave: From tea seedling growth to tea waste disposal.

Cradle: Refers to the starting point of raw materials. Why use a cradle? It's like a newborn baby sleeping in a cradle. Producing a product requires raw materials. The raw material for tea making is simply the fresh tea leaves harvested from tea trees, which come from tea gardens. The tea tree initially might be a seed or a cutting.

Grave: Refers to the endpoint of the product. Compared to the cradle? After death, people lie in coffins and are then buried in graves. The used tea leaves after brewing, the process of disposing of tea leaves may also generate carbon emissions. When the tea product is discarded and finally disappears, that's the endpoint.

The cradle-to-grave product carbon footprint life cycle is the most complete. The cradle is just the starting point, and there are many greenhouse gas emission activities in the subsequent processes. For example, after the tea seedlings grow, various tea garden management activities are needed. During this period, there are emissions from the burning of agricultural machinery, nitrous oxide (N2O) emissions from fertilizer application, or electricity use of equipment in tea factories and gas use in drum-type roasting machines during the tea-making stage. Additionally, it extends to the packaging and transportation of tea products, to consumers boiling water to brew tea, and finally to the disposal of used tea leaves, which completes the full life cycle. In short, from planting tea trees to disposing of used tea leaves, all related carbon emissions are included in the tea product's carbon footprint life cycle, but some items can actually be excluded.

Cradle-to-Gate: From tea seedling growth to tea leaf harvesting in the garden, or from tea seedling growth to the output of tea products in the tea factory.

Gate: Refers to the cut-off point for emissions. For the tea industry, cradle-to-gate could be the tea garden or the tea factory. If it's a contracted tea garden, fresh tea leaves are a product, so cradle-to-gate would be the process (and emissions) from planting tea seedlings to harvesting fresh tea leaves in the garden. If it's a tea farmer who both grows tea and processes it, then cradle-to-gate would be from planting tea seedlings, through the tea-making process, and even to packaging it into a tea product.

For the tea industry, cradle-to-gate could refer to either tea plantations or tea processing factories. If it's a contract tea plantation, tea leaves are considered a commodity, so cradle-to-gate refers to the emissions from planting tea seedlings to harvesting tea leaves in the plantation. If it's a tea farmer who both grows tea and processes it, then cradle-to-gate encompasses everything from planting tea seedlings through the tea processing stages, and may even include packaging the finished tea products.

Gate-to-Gate

This can be understood as a process occurring within an independent tea factory, from when raw materials are delivered through the factory gates until the finished products are transported out of the factory gates. The tea factory purchases fresh tea leaves (raw materials) from contracted tea farmers, produces finished or semi-finished products (goods) through tea processing operations. Finished products are packaged within the tea factory, while semi-finished products such as roughly processed tea still need to be sent elsewhere for stem removal or color sorting for refinement.

How are the stages of carbon footprint divided in Taiwan's tea industry?

The carbon footprint of Taiwanese tea products includes various greenhouse gas emissions from cradle to grave. However, how do we define which processes or stages need to be calculated for emissions? It is necessary to refer to the Carbon Footprint of Product-Product Category Rules (CFP-PCR) published by the Ministry of Environment. This document establishes a reference standard for similar product categories, defining the stages that generate carbon emissions and related assumptions. This article explains this based on the Ministry of Environment's Carbon Footprint of Product-Product Category Rules (CFP-PCR) for Tea, Version 4.0.

The Product Category Standard divides the life cycle scope of tea products into five stages:

Raw Material Acquisition: This includes carbon emissions from fertilizers, pesticides, consumables, and packaging materials used in tea leaf production; carbon emissions from energy resources used by agricultural machinery; transportation emissions from moving tea leaves from plantations to tea factories; and emissions from waste disposal.

Processing: First is the rough processing of tea, referred to as "primary processing" in the product category rules. For semi-fermented tea, this includes withering, pan-firing, rolling, and drying. Carbon emissions calculated include electricity usage in the tea factory and liquid petroleum gas combustion in pan-firing machines and Type A and B drying machines. Next is the tea refining stage, called "secondary processing," which includes stem removal, cutting, sorting, roasting, and blending. Finally, there is tea "packaging," which includes electricity used by vacuum machines. Overall, manufacturing stage emissions mainly come from energy resources (fuel and electricity) used by factory machinery, as well as emissions from waste transportation and processing.

Distribution and Sales: This covers emissions from transporting tea products to sales locations, including vehicle emissions. There may be several warehouses involved, all of which need to be defined. As for calculating emissions until the product reaches consumers' hands, since consumers are distributed throughout Taiwan, it's difficult to calculate accurately. Therefore, calculations typically only include transportation emissions from the tea factory to main sales points. Additionally, transportation scenarios need to consider factors such as distance, mode of transport, loading rate, ton-kilometers, average fuel consumption/cost, etc.

Consumption: The tea carbon footprint product category rules estimate consumer usage emissions through scenario assumptions. The scenario assumes a ratio of 3g of tea to 150ml of hot water, calculating the energy required to heat room-temperature water to boiling using electricity, liquefied petroleum gas, or natural gas. Since it's difficult to estimate how consumers will use the tea (they might cold-brew it or use different tea-to-water ratios), a uniform standard is established for calculating carbon emissions during the tea usage stage

Disposal: This also uses scenario assumptions, calculating the carbon emissions from tea waste disposal based on Taiwan's published ratios for common waste treatment methods: 1) incineration and 2) food waste recycling.

Life Cycle Stages of Tea Products (Carbon Footprint of Product-Product Category Rules (CFP-PCR) - Tea, Version 4.0)

However, there are many differences in how product carbon footprints are defined across the lifecycle. Research from mainland China also divides tea carbon footprints into five stages, but with some differences in terminology and stage differentiation (Figure 3). This research includes the stages: 1. Cultivation 2. Processing 3. Packaging & Transport 4. Consumption 5. Disposal.

from:He et.al (2022)

In this case study, the manufacturing stage only includes the rough processing and refining of tea leaves without packaging. Instead, packaging and distribution are classified in the same stage, possibly because the local tea industry chain often sells roughly processed tea before proceeding with standardized packaging. In contrast, Taiwan's product category rules include packaging in the manufacturing stage. Although packaging activities represent a very small proportion of the overall tea carbon footprint, calculating them in different stages still results in slight differences.

Overall, calculating the carbon footprint of tea may seem simple, but it actually requires substantial data on tea garden management, tea processing, and even transportation to calculate the complete greenhouse gas emissions throughout the tea life cycle, which are then uniformly converted to carbon dioxide equivalents to represent the carbon footprint. After calculating the tea's carbon footprint, one typically seeks to obtain a carbon footprint label issued by the Ministry of Environment. For this purpose, carbon footprint verification must first be obtained. Applicants need to follow the aforementioned carbon footprint product category standards and ISO 14067:2018 standard to write a report on carbon footprint inventory, which must present all information about scenario assumptions, emission activities, and carbon footprint calculations, including emissions related to electricity, liquefied petroleum gas, packaging materials, fertilizers, etc., as well as emissions from distribution and sales, usage stage, and waste disposal stage scenario assumptions, ultimately calculating the emissions per unit of product. After a third-party verification agency conducts data verification and issues a verification statement, one can apply to the Ministry of Environment for a carbon footprint label for tea products.


Other questions about the carbon footprint of tea?

Q: Which stage of tea products has a higher proportion of carbon footprint?

The carbon footprint proportions vary depending on different countries' tea garden management, manufacturing methods, use and disposal scenario assumptions, carbon footprint coefficients for fuels and electricity, and differences in manufacturing stages for various tea types (such as black tea, green tea, partially fermented tea). Therefore, the stage with a higher carbon footprint proportion may differ by region and tea type.

Q: Do different tea consumption methods also create different carbon footprints?

Tea consumption methods indeed affect the carbon footprint. Most studies assume consumers use boiling hot water to brew tea leaves, but cold brewing would result in a different carbon footprint. Western research shows that black tea with milk has a higher carbon footprint, while in Taiwan, hand-shaken drinks with various ingredients would make calculations even more complex.

Q: Can't tea plantations absorb some carbon dioxide?

Tea plantations can absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Research on green tea from mainland China includes calculations of carbon sequestration by tea plantations, which can reduce overall carbon emissions and lower the carbon footprint per unit of product. However, calculating the exact carbon sequestration of tea plantations requires more rigorous methodology.

Q: Does a carbon footprint label add value to tea products?

The impact of carbon footprint labels on adding value to tea products is not straightforward. Different tea garden operations and tea factory models, as well as items excluded when calculating carbon footprints, can all lead to differences in the final tea carbon footprint. For example, high mountain tea may have a higher carbon footprint, mainly due to the long distance of material transportation and high emissions during the transportation stage. However, because of differences in calculation methods among various operators, it is inappropriate to judge the quality of tea products based solely on the carbon footprint. It's important to note that tea carbon footprints need to be verified by third-party verification agencies before applying for a carbon footprint label from the Ministry of Environment, which represents a significant cost for businesses.

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三井合名會社與日治中期後的製茶工場

清領時期臺灣開港通商後,烏龍茶產業在臺北開始崛起,福爾摩沙烏龍(Formosa oolong)創造茶葉外銷的奇蹟,帶動北臺灣的政治與經濟轉型。當然,臺灣北部的茶產業的榮景也延續到了日治時期,時至今日還能看到日治時期所建立的老茶廠,最著名的不外乎是由農林公司經營的大溪老茶廠,其前身是角板山工場(圖1),而如果回溯過往這個老茶場的歷史,必定要提及三井合名會社,也同時一覽當時三井合名會社在日治時期的製茶工場。

圖1. 1926年設立的大溪郡角板山工場,現為大溪老茶廠,位於今日桃園三民。當時工場面積1700坪,茶園面積約500公頃,紅茶年產量60萬磅。

甲午戰爭臺灣割日後,於烏龍茶外銷主要掌控在英美的洋行手上,所以日本政府大力扶植日本商社與洋行競爭茶葉出口,在官方有計畫的支持下,臺灣茶葉貿易的株式會社出現,最大的兩大商社是「三井」(Mitsui & Co., LTD)與「野澤組」(Nosawa & Co.),尤其以三井外銷量最大,其也在北臺灣發展大型製茶工場,這也就是本文章討論的三井合名會社。

圖2. 三井在雜誌上的福爾摩沙茶廣告
圖3. 三井在美國的廣告

日本政府接手臺灣時,日商的三井物產株式會社在1896年於大稻埕港邊街設立臺北支店,專門經營茶葉、樟腦、稻米、砂糖等物產的出口。1909年三井家族成立「三井合名會社」,並在臺北設立總部「臺灣出張所」,其在日治時期除開發臺灣林業資源,也進行大規模茶葉生產與貿易。1908年三井合名會社首先在海山郡設立海山茶場,一開始以生產烏龍茶、包種茶為主,後來又建立8座大型製茶工場,其中7座屬於新式機械製茶工場,1座為傳統式的製茶工場。

1920年代三井合名會社陸續建立其他製茶工場,由於烏龍茶外銷衰退,臺灣茶的出口逐漸轉為生產包種茶與紅茶外銷。新式機械製茶工場更有利於紅茶的製造,包括萎凋室、機械是揉捻機、甚至還有乾燥機。三井合名會社建造的第二座茶場是大豹工場,面積將近2000坪,茶園面積約600公頃,紅茶年產量65萬磅,為當時東亞最大型的新式製茶工廠。(圖4)

1923年於臺北州文山郡石碇庄設立乾溝工廠,屬於傳統的舊式製茶工場,採用手動機械製造,因此單日製茶產量少,紅茶年產量最少僅10萬磅(工場面積210坪,茶園面積約100公頃)。同年接受臺灣拓殖製茶株式會社委託管理位於新竹州的苗栗郡三叉工場(圖5)與大溪郡銅鑼圈工場。隔年,1924年設立的臺北州海山郡大寮工場(圖6),為大豹工場的分場。1926年,往南在新竹州大溪郡建立角板山工場(圖1),也是大溪老茶廠的前身。在臺北州與新竹州地區的大豹工場、大寮工場與角板山工場是當時產量前三大的新式製茶工場。後來,1928年在臺北州文山郡設立磺窟工場(圖7)

圖4. 大豹位於大漢溪支流三峽溪中上游地帶,即現今新北市三峽南部大板根附近,古地名為插角。1900年左右日本人進入開發山林資源,而後日本總督府進行「理蕃政策」,在經過與泰雅族一系列的激烈交戰後佔領大豹社,隨後三井合名會社進入此地區開發茶園。
圖5. 三叉工場面積900坪,茶園面積約360公頃,紅茶年產量35萬磅。
圖6. 大寮工場面積800坪,茶園面積約200公頃,紅茶年產量25萬磅。
圖7. 磺窟工場面積700坪,茶園面積約300公頃,紅茶年產量30萬磅,位於今日新店區一帶。
圖7. 龜山工場面積450坪,茶園面積約200公頃,紅茶年產量25萬磅,位於今日新北市新店區龜山里。

由以上大型製茶工場的老照片,再加上茶場周圍遍佈的數百公頃茶園,就可以想像三井合名會社當時在臺灣紅茶的生產規模。三井合名會社建立的 8 座茶場工場與茶園,可以說是日治時期三井成功外銷臺灣紅茶的基礎,日後發展出與立頓紅茶「Lipton」競爭的日東紅茶「Nittoh 」,想要藉此攻入國際的紅茶市場,臺灣的紅茶在日本政府大力扶持與國際行銷之下,在世界紅茶的競爭中佔有一席之地,也曾有一段風光的歲月。

二戰後 1945 年中華民國政府接收臺灣,大量開始接收日本在臺產業,數個日本株式會社合併成立「臺灣省茶業公司」,隨後改隸屬於「臺灣農林股份有限公司」之下的茶業分公司,三井合名會社管轄的這些製茶工場與茶葉貿易的事業單位,也就一併撥交給農林公司管理。在二戰期間雖然台灣茶外銷大減,但戰後紅茶外銷量又持續增長,甚至超越日治時期的外銷量,除了農林公司的製茶單位之外,也有其他民營茶葉工廠的努力,那又是另一段臺灣茶業發展的故事了。

參考資料
1. 臺灣銀行。”臺灣之茶”。1949。
2. 三井の茶業。(製茶工場圖片來源,作者翻攝重置)
3.Ukers, William H., All About Tea. (New York: The Tea and Coffee Trade Journal Co.,1935), vol.1
4.The Tea & Coffee Trade Journal (三井廣告圖片)

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30秒冷泡茶的秘密?如何低溫快速萃取茶湯!

冷泡茶通常會喝來比較甘甜、清爽,不過製作冷泡茶的時間大概要將茶葉原葉浸泡在水中,並靜置在冰箱6至8小時才能夠享用。如果是在炎炎夏日,用熱水泡茶在加冰塊降溫簡直多此一舉,你怎麼能忍受那幾個小時等待冰箱中的冷泡茶,一定想即刻想飲用沁涼消暑的茶飲?關於低溫萃取茶湯的方法非常簡單,只有有一些器具在家裡即可自己試試看。

30秒冷泡茶的秘密?如何低溫快速萃取茶湯! Read More »

梅山可能是台灣南部最早具規模的茶產區?

有人說台灣南部最早種茶的地區是滿州鄉,也就是現在港口茶的產區,不過一直以來港口茶的產量並沒有很多,在清領末期北台灣烏龍茶賺取大量外匯後,也有人想到南部嘗試種茶,不過最終因為品質不佳,沒有在南部大量開墾種茶,絕大部分的茶區都分佈在今日台中以北的地區,南部雖有零星種植卻無法形成具規模的茶產區。

1895年台灣割日,福爾摩沙烏龍茶正處於的巔峰年代,從日本總督府的1899年的調查數據可以看出台灣茶區的分佈絕大部分都在臺北、宜蘭與桃園,也有擴張到較為南方的新竹與苗栗地區。

可以觀察到日治初期中部與南部的行政區臺中縣與臺南縣,也出現面積較小的茶圃,可以注意紅字的沙連堡、沙連下堡,大約是今日南投日月潭地區,而更南邊的台南縣有一個叫「打猫東頂堡」的地區也有少量的產茶,這裡是哪裡呢?

大約是今日嘉義縣古坑鄉、梅山鄉、大林鎮境內:

後來打猫東頂堡的確在日治中期發展成為一個南部小規模的產區,在1935年出版的ALL ABOUT TEA書籍的地圖中,顯示「水沙連」與「打猫東頂堡」分別是中部與南部的茶區。雖然滿洲的植茶歷史早於梅山地區,但南部真正形成茶葉生產規模的應該是梅山茶區。

紅圈處為今日嘉義縣古坑、梅山、大林地區;紅圈的西北方為南投縣日月潭茶區。陰影處為茶區,大多集中在臺北、桃園、新竹;中央黑點處為山脈名稱
All About Tea, Volume 1
by Ukers, William H. (William Harrison) 1935

梅山可能是台灣南部最早具規模的茶產區? Read More »

臺灣包種茶的歷史

包種茶在台灣的開端

台灣包種茶的歷史,應該要從1873年前後說起,因為世界茶業不景氣,再加上當時在台的五家洋行,認為台灣之烏龍茶價昂貴,無利可圖。茶商為了消化烏龍茶的庫存迫不得已,將台北滯銷的烏龍茶運至福州,加以薰花改製成「花香茶」,這些花香茶外銷至南洋反而受到廣大的歡迎。 由於台灣將茶葉運至福建加工的成本太高,茶商決定在產地直接加工,於是就帶著製茶師來台北,在大稻埕周邊設立薰花的工廠,因此將薰花(窨花)的製法傳入台灣。

延伸閱讀:臺灣烏龍茶的歷史

有些說法將「烏龍茶」加以薰花,即改製成「包種茶」,在茶葉分類的角度來看有點不合理。嚴格來說烏龍茶應屬於發酵度較高的茶類,而包種茶是發酵度較低,因此不太可能透過薰花或是烘培,就將其發酵度降低。當時製作薰花茶這類的茶,可能是一種過渡期的產物,所以很難定義。花香茶、薰花茶應該是介於台灣的烏龍茶與包種茶之間過渡的折衷方法,照理來說應該不能稱為包種茶。

台灣包種茶的發展,實際應該從改變烏龍茶傳統製程說起,因為新的製茶工藝可以不需藉由薰花,就能使茶葉達到高香的程度。這要歸功於福建安溪來的王水錦、魏靜時二人,在台北七星區南港大坑地方,從事茶業與製作研究。王水錦先生將傳統武夷茶製法加以改良,成茶特色為茶湯略紅、滋味甘甜具有濃烈的香氣,此製法普遍流傳於文山郡,所以被稱之為「文山式製造法」,此種製法的發酵度與原本的烏龍茶的發酵度較相近。魏靜時先生則是嘗試降低茶葉的發酵度,輕發酵的製程反而凸顯出茶葉清幽的花香,成茶湯色為密綠色、滋味較淡雅,此種製法又稱為「南港式製造法」。

萎凋過程的攪拌,使茶葉受傷產生綠葉鑲紅邊的現象

包種茶從烏龍茶製程改良,從較重的攪拌演變較為短時間輕柔攪拌、長時間靜置的方式改良的包種茶製作技術,可以不用薰花,茶葉就可在製程中產生花朵的香氣。此種製茶法,逐漸取代工序繁瑣的薰花茶,保有烏龍茶的喉韻,又帶有香氣。

包種茶在台灣如何崛起?

包種茶製作方法逐漸發展成熟後,越來越多茶農將烏龍茶改做包種茶,包種茶的外銷量也在日治時代超越烏龍茶,1920年以後包種茶每年出口開始超過烏龍茶,甚至還持續成長。有幾個重要的原因造成此局面。 台灣烏龍茶最主要的外銷市場是美國,1930年左右正值美國經濟大蕭條的期間,美國失業率大增,許多人連工作都沒有,因此沒有多餘的錢來買茶葉,烏龍茶的需求下滑,導致台灣的烏龍茶外銷急遽萎縮。然而,以南洋為主要外銷市場的包種茶反而沒有受到太大的波擊,烏龍茶外銷不佳的因素,很多茶農也開始轉作包種茶,漸漸的烏龍茶產量因此逐漸減少。

日治初期茶葉在台灣總體的貿易額相當高,不過,延續清領時期的茶業生態,洋行與茶商還是主要掌控台灣茶業貿易的勢力,他們以台灣的烏龍茶賺了不少錢。日本政府當然也不忽略茶這個經濟來源,也有重視包種茶的研究,因此選擇南港地區為包種茶研究中心,此時日本政府為了削弱洋行的勢力,以掌控對台灣茶業的影響力,同時也開始大力扶持台灣紅茶產業,並建立相關的株式會社。

延伸閱讀:臺灣紅茶的歷史

包種茶的轉變過程

台灣目前市面上常稱的烏龍茶,以發酵度與製法來說應算是包種茶,這麼說很容易產生混淆,但如果從歷史的脈絡觀察就能知道答案。最初的包種茶是條形茶,當包種茶成為台灣外銷的主力後,日本人認為台灣的包種茶,形狀與外觀就算經過揀梗精製後也不夠美觀,而且條形茶密度較低,對於海外的消費者來說缺乏重量感,所以嘗試將包種茶做成眉型、蝦米型或半球形提高海外市場的競爭力。

光復後台灣的茶葉外銷再起,包種茶與紅茶佔據大部分的台灣茶葉生產主力,但烏龍茶的外銷榮景已不再,包種茶是多數茶農製作的茶類,重發酵的茶類則較少生產,大約同個時期安溪鐵觀音布球團揉的技法,也在台灣中部茶區開始傳授。隨著團揉技術越趨成熟,南投茶區是最早開始少量生產半球型包種茶的地區,1970年代布球揉捻機研發成功,布球團揉的技術開始傳到其他茶區。

茶葉團揉的次數越高,茶葉的捲曲程度越高、依據茶球的緊結程度,又可分為半球形到球形茶。南投縣鹿谷鄉凍頂山所生產之「凍頂茶」是那時最具代表性的半球形或球形茶,一般會稱為「凍頂烏龍茶」,因為當時主要以「青心烏龍」品種製作,久而久之就被簡稱為烏龍茶,導致後期發展出的半球形或球形茶,都習慣將其統稱烏龍茶,也就是廣義的烏龍茶。
延伸閱讀:什麼是烏龍茶? vs 什麼是包種茶?

條形包種茶
球形包種茶

這種習慣不只台灣,國際上的球形茶基本上也都稱為oolong tea,但嚴格來說是未達到早期烏龍茶的發酵程度,也因為這個轉變,發酵度較輕的球形包種茶逐漸被稱為烏龍茶。凍頂烏龍茶的年代,也正是台灣茶業朝高山茶區發展的時期,為了配合高山環境孕育出絕佳茶芽品質,也要顯現獨特的茶葉滋味與香氣,所以選擇包種茶的製法加上團揉製作成球形茶,不過,為了保留高山茶絕頂的香氣,不像凍頂烏龍茶要進行較長時間的焙火。

隨著時代的更迭,現今所謂的烏龍茶跟幾百年前外銷的烏龍茶有很大的不同。雖然,台灣茶主要產區已經移至中部,大宗產製的茶類也變為球形茶,不過北台灣茶區還是能看到包種茶的歷史脈絡,條形包種茶還是常見於北台灣茶區茶類,特別是新北市坪林與石碇區,又以文山包種茶最出名。在廣大球形茶中包種茶還是能以它高雅的香氣佔有台灣茶的一席之地。

延伸閱讀:文山包種茶-茶尋台灣

臺灣包種茶的歷史 Read More »

茶葉萎凋有何意義?

「萎凋」,對於大部分人來說,是一個文謅謅的陌生名詞,而茶葉萎凋在製茶師傅的口中稱為「走水」,想必是與茶葉的水分有關係,如果把兩個詞彙一同聯想,就很好理解茶葉在這時發生了什麼事。簡單來說,當採摘下的茶葉,組織內的水分逐漸散失後,會有種枯萎凋零的狀態,就好像植物太久沒有澆水,枝葉下垂無精打采的樣子。那為什麼茶葉生產加工時,需要讓茶葉萎凋呢?

茶葉萎凋有何意義? Read More »

影響福爾摩沙烏龍茶出口的兩大現代建設

一、鐵路修築(基隆到新竹)

1887年劉銘傳決定建設台灣北部的鐵路,剛開始從大稻埕到基隆先通車,後來新竹報台北的路線也開通,兩段鐵路都通過大稻埕,因為那是台灣當時最繁華的地區。淡水一直以來都是茶葉出口的港口,至少1895年之前是這樣,大部分的茶葉都是由大稻埕往下游運送,然後出口至中國沿岸的廈門與福州。鐵路建立以後,已經有一些桃園、新竹、苗栗地區生產的茶葉藉由鐵路,往北運到大稻埕。

影響福爾摩沙烏龍茶出口的兩大現代建設 Read More »

烏龍茶是什麼?

要了解烏龍茶可以從好幾個面向討論,從茶類廣義到狹義的定義,從茶樹的品種,從茶葉的商品名等。其實這些議題都有密切的關係,也似乎都糾纏在一起。什麼是烏龍茶?在不同的地區,在不同的年代,不同人的定義中都不盡相同。如果不求精通,只求略懂,大概可以從三個重點了解烏龍茶。

烏龍茶是什麼? Read More »