TEA 茶

韓國茶產業的歷史演變

每當跟有喝茶的朋友提到韓國(南韓)茶產業時,大家多對其相當陌生,台灣人認識日本茶卻遠勝於韓國。不過,依據歷史來說,韓國的茶業發展史早於日本,甚至茶是從朝鮮半島傳過去日本的。韓國茶業其實有一段輝煌的歷史,但是在朝鮮時代卻被封印住了,我們來看看韓國茶的歷史與近代是如何發展。

韓國古代的茶歷史

(一)古代至高麗時期的演進:從宗教聖地到宮廷茶文化

韓國茶文化的起源與佛教傳播密不可分。西元372年,佛教從中原傳入高句麗(고구려, Goguryeo)後,僧侶們不僅引進了宗教信仰,也將中國的飲茶習俗引入朝鮮半島。佛教的僧人將茶視為一種修行的輔助工具,認為茶能清心明志,也有助於參禪悟道,這是早期茶文化傳入朝鮮半島的原因。

不過,真正奠定韓國茶文化基礎的關鍵事件發生於西元643年。新羅(신라, Silla)僧人慈藏(자장, Jajang)從中國學成歸國後,在通度寺(통도사, Tongdosa Temple, 位於蔚山)種植了第一批茶樹。這不僅是朝鮮半島上首次的茶樹栽培,更象徵茶文化在朝鮮半島的生根發芽。隨後在西元828年,新羅派遣唐使大廉(대렴, Daeryeom)將中國茶種帶回,種植在智異山(지리산, Jirisan Mountain)地區,至今是該地區還是韓國重要的茶產區。新羅王國統一朝鮮半島後,進入新羅王朝定都金城,即現今慶洲(경주, Gyeongju),茶文化便以此地為中心開始蓬勃發展。西元745年,新羅僧人忠談(충담, Chungdam)在茶會上創作鄉歌(향가, Hyangga),這是韓國歷史上首次有文獻記錄的茶會,顯示茶文化從單純的宗教活動,發展為文人雅集的活動。

到了高麗王朝(고려왕조, Goryeo Dynasty)時期,韓國的茶文化經歷從寺院走向宮廷的轉變。西元931年,高麗太祖(고려 태조, King Taejo of Goryeo)向敬順王(경순왕, King Gyeongsun)和人民獻茶,茶成為政治儀式的重要元素,象徵和平與尊重。西元995年,高麗宮廷正式建立茶館(다관)並指派專職人員管理,顯示茶文化在古代韓國走向制度化和專業化。

高麗時期的茶文化發展,也體現在物質文明的進步上,隨著與中國貿易的增加,朝鮮半島也對於康津(강진, Gangjin)、青瓷(청자, Celadon)製作技術日趨精湛,其中高麗青瓷茶,以其獨特的翡翠色澤聞名。另外,茶也變成國際交流的一環,例如,在西元1078年,宋朝使節帶來的龍鳳茶(용봉차, Longfeng Tea),顯見鄰近國以茶交流情形。在高麗時期茶文化功能更多元化,從僧侶修行的物品,發展為宮廷禮儀的載體,再成為文人墨客的精神寄託。茶不僅是飲品,而是承載著宗教、政治、文化多重意義的飲品。

(二)高麗晚期到朝鮮王朝的轉折:從宮廷榮耀到文化禁錮

高麗王朝末期,朝顯半島的茶文化達到顛峰。宮廷茶禮(궁중 다례, Royal Tea Ceremony)已成為重要國事活動的組成部分,茶不僅是日常飲品,更是身份與品味的象徵。西元1010年《大藏經》(대장경, Tripitaka Koreana)發行時,高麗國王將茶作為珍貴禮品賜給大臣,顯示茶在宮廷文化中的崇高地位。 然而,西元1392年朝鮮王朝(조선왕조, Joseon Dynasty)建立後,茶文化面臨巨大的挑戰。新的王朝奉行儒學治國,強調實用主義和節儉美德,開始對待有奢侈風氣的茶文化產生質疑。儘管,朝鮮王朝初期仍保持部分茶禮的傳統,像是西元1401年,歡迎明朝使節時仍舉行茶禮,西元1417年,明朝使節引進新茶碗時,朝鮮陶工製作了精美的粉青茶碗(분청사기, Buncheong Ceramics),不過這些活動都是茶文化衰落前的最後輝煌。

西元1452年,是韓國茶文化史上的分水嶺。朝鮮王朝正式決定停止在各種官方活動中舉行茶禮,理由是茶禮過於奢華,不符合儒家的節儉理念。這一項政策對韓國茶文化造成重大的打擊。隨之而來的是西元1538年關閉佛寺政策,導致寺院茶葉生產急劇減少,切斷朝顯半島茶文化的重要根基。

在這種嚴峻的時局下,茶文化的傳承主要依靠少數堅持傳統的學者和僧侶,例如西元1610年《東醫寶鑑》(동의보감, Dongeuibogam)仍討論茶的藥用價值,說明茶在醫學領域的地位得以保持。18-19世紀學者丁若鏞(정약용, Jeong Yak-yong)和草衣禪師(초의선사, Choui Zen Master)更是在低潮中堅持茶道研究,為後世保存珍貴的茶文化理論。

朝鮮時期的變化,反映政治意識形態對茶文化發展的深刻影響,儒學的實用主義價值觀與茶文化強調的精神產生根本的衝突,導致長達數百年的文化斷層。茶文化從宮廷的榮耀象徵,淪為被抵制的奢侈文化,只能在民間和寺院中艱難地傳承,在此時期在朝鮮半島東邊的日本,正在歷經茶產業的蓬勃發展。

韓國近代的茶業發展之路

(一)19世紀到日治時期的茶業發展

在經歷朝鮮王朝數百年的沉寂後,韓國茶文化在近現代迎來新的轉機。19世紀末到20世紀初,在西方文明衝擊和國家現代化需求的推動下,韓國開始重新審視傳統茶文化的價值。西元1883年,朝鮮政府首次通過農商司(농상사, Ministry of Agriculture and Commerce)鼓勵茶葉種植,作為茶產業復興的政策起點。

日治殖民時期,是韓國茶業的現代化發展轉型期。西元1911年무등산(Mudeungsan Mountain)茶園的建立、1913年정읍 (Jeongeup)茶葉種植的開始,以及1939年全羅南道(전라남도, Jeollanam-do)生產的青苔錢茶(청태전차, Cheongtaejeon Tea),是韓國現代茶樹種植技術與傳統茶文化的初步結合。後來特別在西元1940年寶城(보성, Boseong)建立茶園,寶城的氣候、地理和土壤,加上現代韓國茶業奠定重要基礎,導入現代化的工廠設施,建立出口導向的紅茶產業。

(二)韓國獨立到現代的茶產業發展

韓國獨立後,其茶文化復興運動才真正開始,但是獨立後隨即遇到韓戰(1950-1953年)茶園在韓戰期間被燒毀或荒廢,直到西元1957年,張榮攝(Chang Yeong-Seop)先生接手寶城這些荒廢的茶園,採集原有種子,開墾30公頃的大規模茶園(大韓紅茶,即現今的大韓茶業)。西元1960年代,內需茶產業起飛。例如1961年,韓國修訂「特定外來品買賣禁止法」,禁止進口紅茶與咖啡,導致國產紅茶需求激增。西元1962年,大韓紅茶業建立了國內首個大規模紅茶製茶設施。1969年至1973年,透過政府的「農特事業」,茶園面積擴大至590公頃。此時期的寶城紅茶主要銷售至美軍和日本,並直到1980年代後期都維持著紅茶為主力出口茶類。 

1970年代發生了改變,出口轉向與綠茶契機,國際外交局勢的變化,意外地為韓國綠茶產業打開了大門。1972年,日本因與中華民國斷交,逐漸減少從台灣進口綠茶。日本轉而與韓國的「大韓茶業」簽訂合約生產綠茶,幾乎進口其全部產量,雖然與日本的進口合約維持至1978年結束,但這段期間的過渡,為接下來的綠茶內需市場奠定了基礎,社會氛圍從單純的產業化轉向為恢復傳統的意識,茶產業重心也從紅茶轉移至綠茶。

1980年代開始重塑韓國的茶文化。1981年設立茶日(차의 날)、1983年設立韓國茶禮協會(한국차례협회, Korea Tea Ceremony Association),使茶文化從民間自發轉向組織化推廣。西元1985年首次舉辦寶城茶文化節(보성차문화축제, Boseong Tea Culture Festival),不僅復興傳統茶文化,也為茶產業發展注入新的活力。
21世紀的韓國茶產業,呈現出傳統與現代的融合的特色。西元2001年在濟州島設立Osulloc茶博物館(오설록 녹차박물관),透過展示現代化的茶業生產與茶文化。2013年第一屆寶城世界茶博覽會(보성세계차박람회, Boseong World Tea Expo)的成功舉辦,更在2018年寶城梯田傳統茶農業系統(보성 다원 전통차농업시스템)被指定為國家重要農業遺產(국가중요농업유산, National Important Agricultural Heritage)第11號,不僅保護傳統茶園景觀,是現代韓國對茶文化傳承的深度思考,將茶文化從單純的產業發展提升到文化遺產保護的層次。韓國雖然並非傳統的產茶大國,不過在韓國國內的茶產業的發展,從近代茶文化教育的普及到茶旅遊產業的發展,韓國成功地將古老的茶文化轉化為現代文化產業的重要組成部分。

韓國茶產業的歷史演變 Read More »

茶的發音可以了解茶葉世界貿易的歷史?

我們熟知茶英文念作 (TEA),而常見的日本抹茶英文則是(MATCHA),同樣是茶為什麼發音不大相同呢?你是否有感覺CHA顯然是從中文茶字的發音而來?如果再給你看一些不同語言的例子,荷蘭文(THEE)、德文(TEE)、印度語 (CHAI),茶在不同國家似乎分成兩種發音,要明白這個問題可以從茶葉在世界貿易的歷史路線帶你解惑。

茶的發音可以了解茶葉世界貿易的歷史? Read More »

【茶尋台灣】日月老茶廠-南投紅茶發展重要的歷史建物

南投縣是台灣茶葉種植面積最大,產量最多的地區,特別能展現台灣茶多元的樣貌,魚池鄉特別能展現今日台灣紅茶的地方。魚池鄉發展紅茶的歷史可以追溯到日治時期,當時日本人引進阿薩姆茶種種植,並在日月潭附近進行育種與製茶試驗。在日治時期的台灣紅茶外銷,多還是從台北至新竹與苗栗一帶的茶廠生產,到了二戰後國民政府紅茶外銷的鼎盛時期,中部產區的紅茶產量也持續攀升,魚池鄉當然也成為產製紅茶的主力地區,而我們今天所介紹的日月老茶廠就是在該時代下的產物。

日月老茶廠的招牌-英文名字SUN MOON LAKE ANTIQUE ASSAM TEA FRAM

日月老茶廠的外部場區介紹

日月老茶廠距離日月潭風景區不遠,是南投魚池鄉茶文化重要歷史建物之一,日月老茶廠目前還保留原建築結構,但有稍微整修部分的內部空間,轉型為具茶葉生產、販售、飲食、活動等複合功能的場址。日月老茶廠設立於1959年(民國48年),建廠後專注於紅茶的製造,在茶廠的二樓仍保留4座大型紅茶萎凋槽,但拆除了傳統的紅茶萎凋架,萎凋空間利用特殊的窗戶環境自然通氣,另外利用萎凋槽通氣強制對流方式,促進紅茶萎凋速度;茶廠的一樓仍保留數台老舊的傑克遜式茶葉揉捻機、解塊機、篩分機、甲種乾燥機、以及紅茶發酵室與茶葉精製室。日月茶廠內部的製茶機具現在仍持續有在運作中,如果有幸在製作紅茶的季節參觀茶廠,或許能一覽整個紅茶製造的流程。

日月老茶廠是臺灣農林公司魚池茶場製茶工廠
製茶工廠於民國48年落成
門牌

進入日月老茶廠的道路兩側有種植一些茶樹,除了小葉種的茶樹,還有日月潭地區大量種植的台茶18號紅玉。以日月老茶廠周圍的茶園面積來說不足供應大量茶菁原料,在日月老茶廠附近應該還有其他農林公司的茶園供應製作紅茶的原料。日月老茶廠建築的牆壁上有藤蔓植物-爬牆虎,攀附在米白色的牆上,有綠葉又有些轉為紅黃色非,配上藍色的窗櫺又更詩情畫意,感覺不像是個製茶工廠。

台茶18號生長勢比較接近喬木的型態
This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is -1-1024x576.jpg
台茶18號紅玉的新芽
茶廠一樓的窗戶與排風扇
茶廠二樓萎凋室可旋轉90度的特殊窗櫺
日月老茶廠的正門
由正門望向外面
茶廠的農工日誌,包含茶葉與咖啡的農作

日月老茶廠內的場區

現在參觀老茶廠除了古樸絕美的環境外,我們也可以從茶廠的區域配置,一覽紅茶製造的過程,尤其日月老茶廠還有持續進行紅茶的製造,更能感受到這個茶廠的活力。首先依據紅茶的製程,一開始需從茶廠外將採收的茶菁運進廠內,接著進行長時間的萎凋,萎凋至一定程度後再進行揉捻,揉捻的過程中還需將緊節的茶球解塊,揉捻至一定程度後接著就會開始進行發酵,待發酵完成即可進行烘乾,再進行茶葉的撿梗與精製。而茶廠內的動線也依據紅茶的製程安排,一開始大量的茶菁會利用輸送帶將至運送到茶廠二樓進行萎凋。

輸送帶直接將茶菁運送到二樓
茶廠二樓的萎凋空間,將茶菁攤平治萎凋槽上方。
萎凋槽後方的通氣設備,以風扇強制通氣加快茶葉水分散失。
早期的大量茶菁萎凋時,會將木頭層架掛上檜木的柱子上,增加茶廠萎凋的量。
茶廠二樓萎凋空間為增加空氣流通,窗戶是可以旋轉90度的設計。
往窗外望去,窗框配上爬牆虎的葉片很唯美。

萎凋結束後會將茶葉送茶廠二樓送往一樓進行揉捻,為了避免搬運大量茶菁,萎凋空間的地板有開設方型的輸送口,可以將茶菁直接從輸送口投入下方的茶葉揉捻機中,即可快速進行茶葉的揉捻。

【茶尋台灣】日月老茶廠-南投紅茶發展重要的歷史建物 Read More »

The carbon footprint of tea - What are the carbon emissions when you brew a cup of tea ?

What's the carbon footprint of brewing a cup of tea?

You might think that tea is just an agricultural product and probably doesn't have much carbon emissions, perhaps only from the machinery used in tea processing or the slight carbon emissions from burning gas when boiling water for tea. However, the carbon footprint of tea is more complex than you might imagine.

How much carbon emission is produced from the tea bud to brewing a cup of tea?

To understand the carbon footprint of tea, one must grasp the concept of "product carbon footprint life cycle". Firstly, although it's called a "carbon" footprint, it actually includes emissions of various greenhouse gases, not just carbon dioxide. Different greenhouse gases have different Global Warming Potentials (GWP). This can be understood as their ability to cause the greenhouse effect compared to carbon dioxide. For example, methane (CH4) has a GWP value of about 28, meaning that emitting 1 kg of methane is equivalent to the greenhouse effect caused by 28 kg of carbon dioxide (CO2). In other words, emitting 1 kg of methane equals 28 kg of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e). Finally, the impact of all greenhouse gases is expressed in terms of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e).

Additionally, we need to understand the concept of a product's "life cycle". First, we must determine which stages need to be calculated in this cycle, what relevant emissions need to be calculated in these stages, and which emissions can be excluded. In Taiwan, the carbon footprint life cycle of tea products includes cradle-to-grave, which means from tea tree planting to the disposal of tea waste. Why is it called a cradle? You can think of it as a newborn baby sleeping in a cradle. For products, it refers to the raw materials needed for production. The raw material for tea making is simply the tea leaves harvested from tea trees. The tea tree might initially be a seed or a cutting, and we also need to include emissions from fertilizers and materials used in tea garden management. The grave, as you might guess, is the endpoint of the product. Just as humans are buried in coffins and then in graves after death, products will eventually become waste. For tea products, besides packaging waste, the used tea leaves from brewing also generate carbon emissions during waste treatment. The disposal of tea product waste is the endpoint.

Cradle-to-Grave: From tea seedling growth to tea waste disposal.

Cradle: Refers to the starting point of raw materials. Why use a cradle? It's like a newborn baby sleeping in a cradle. Producing a product requires raw materials. The raw material for tea making is simply the fresh tea leaves harvested from tea trees, which come from tea gardens. The tea tree initially might be a seed or a cutting.

Grave: Refers to the endpoint of the product. Compared to the cradle? After death, people lie in coffins and are then buried in graves. The used tea leaves after brewing, the process of disposing of tea leaves may also generate carbon emissions. When the tea product is discarded and finally disappears, that's the endpoint.

The cradle-to-grave product carbon footprint life cycle is the most complete. The cradle is just the starting point, and there are many greenhouse gas emission activities in the subsequent processes. For example, after the tea seedlings grow, various tea garden management activities are needed. During this period, there are emissions from the burning of agricultural machinery, nitrous oxide (N2O) emissions from fertilizer application, or electricity use of equipment in tea factories and gas use in drum-type roasting machines during the tea-making stage. Additionally, it extends to the packaging and transportation of tea products, to consumers boiling water to brew tea, and finally to the disposal of used tea leaves, which completes the full life cycle. In short, from planting tea trees to disposing of used tea leaves, all related carbon emissions are included in the tea product's carbon footprint life cycle, but some items can actually be excluded.

Cradle-to-Gate: From tea seedling growth to tea leaf harvesting in the garden, or from tea seedling growth to the output of tea products in the tea factory.

Gate: Refers to the cut-off point for emissions. For the tea industry, cradle-to-gate could be the tea garden or the tea factory. If it's a contracted tea garden, fresh tea leaves are a product, so cradle-to-gate would be the process (and emissions) from planting tea seedlings to harvesting fresh tea leaves in the garden. If it's a tea farmer who both grows tea and processes it, then cradle-to-gate would be from planting tea seedlings, through the tea-making process, and even to packaging it into a tea product.

For the tea industry, cradle-to-gate could refer to either tea plantations or tea processing factories. If it's a contract tea plantation, tea leaves are considered a commodity, so cradle-to-gate refers to the emissions from planting tea seedlings to harvesting tea leaves in the plantation. If it's a tea farmer who both grows tea and processes it, then cradle-to-gate encompasses everything from planting tea seedlings through the tea processing stages, and may even include packaging the finished tea products.

Gate-to-Gate

This can be understood as a process occurring within an independent tea factory, from when raw materials are delivered through the factory gates until the finished products are transported out of the factory gates. The tea factory purchases fresh tea leaves (raw materials) from contracted tea farmers, produces finished or semi-finished products (goods) through tea processing operations. Finished products are packaged within the tea factory, while semi-finished products such as roughly processed tea still need to be sent elsewhere for stem removal or color sorting for refinement.

How are the stages of carbon footprint divided in Taiwan's tea industry?

The carbon footprint of Taiwanese tea products includes various greenhouse gas emissions from cradle to grave. However, how do we define which processes or stages need to be calculated for emissions? It is necessary to refer to the Carbon Footprint of Product-Product Category Rules (CFP-PCR) published by the Ministry of Environment. This document establishes a reference standard for similar product categories, defining the stages that generate carbon emissions and related assumptions. This article explains this based on the Ministry of Environment's Carbon Footprint of Product-Product Category Rules (CFP-PCR) for Tea, Version 4.0.

The Product Category Standard divides the life cycle scope of tea products into five stages:

Raw Material Acquisition: This includes carbon emissions from fertilizers, pesticides, consumables, and packaging materials used in tea leaf production; carbon emissions from energy resources used by agricultural machinery; transportation emissions from moving tea leaves from plantations to tea factories; and emissions from waste disposal.

Processing: First is the rough processing of tea, referred to as "primary processing" in the product category rules. For semi-fermented tea, this includes withering, pan-firing, rolling, and drying. Carbon emissions calculated include electricity usage in the tea factory and liquid petroleum gas combustion in pan-firing machines and Type A and B drying machines. Next is the tea refining stage, called "secondary processing," which includes stem removal, cutting, sorting, roasting, and blending. Finally, there is tea "packaging," which includes electricity used by vacuum machines. Overall, manufacturing stage emissions mainly come from energy resources (fuel and electricity) used by factory machinery, as well as emissions from waste transportation and processing.

Distribution and Sales: This covers emissions from transporting tea products to sales locations, including vehicle emissions. There may be several warehouses involved, all of which need to be defined. As for calculating emissions until the product reaches consumers' hands, since consumers are distributed throughout Taiwan, it's difficult to calculate accurately. Therefore, calculations typically only include transportation emissions from the tea factory to main sales points. Additionally, transportation scenarios need to consider factors such as distance, mode of transport, loading rate, ton-kilometers, average fuel consumption/cost, etc.

Consumption: The tea carbon footprint product category rules estimate consumer usage emissions through scenario assumptions. The scenario assumes a ratio of 3g of tea to 150ml of hot water, calculating the energy required to heat room-temperature water to boiling using electricity, liquefied petroleum gas, or natural gas. Since it's difficult to estimate how consumers will use the tea (they might cold-brew it or use different tea-to-water ratios), a uniform standard is established for calculating carbon emissions during the tea usage stage

Disposal: This also uses scenario assumptions, calculating the carbon emissions from tea waste disposal based on Taiwan's published ratios for common waste treatment methods: 1) incineration and 2) food waste recycling.

Life Cycle Stages of Tea Products (Carbon Footprint of Product-Product Category Rules (CFP-PCR) - Tea, Version 4.0)

However, there are many differences in how product carbon footprints are defined across the lifecycle. Research from mainland China also divides tea carbon footprints into five stages, but with some differences in terminology and stage differentiation (Figure 3). This research includes the stages: 1. Cultivation 2. Processing 3. Packaging & Transport 4. Consumption 5. Disposal.

from:He et.al (2022)

In this case study, the manufacturing stage only includes the rough processing and refining of tea leaves without packaging. Instead, packaging and distribution are classified in the same stage, possibly because the local tea industry chain often sells roughly processed tea before proceeding with standardized packaging. In contrast, Taiwan's product category rules include packaging in the manufacturing stage. Although packaging activities represent a very small proportion of the overall tea carbon footprint, calculating them in different stages still results in slight differences.

Overall, calculating the carbon footprint of tea may seem simple, but it actually requires substantial data on tea garden management, tea processing, and even transportation to calculate the complete greenhouse gas emissions throughout the tea life cycle, which are then uniformly converted to carbon dioxide equivalents to represent the carbon footprint. After calculating the tea's carbon footprint, one typically seeks to obtain a carbon footprint label issued by the Ministry of Environment. For this purpose, carbon footprint verification must first be obtained. Applicants need to follow the aforementioned carbon footprint product category standards and ISO 14067:2018 standard to write a report on carbon footprint inventory, which must present all information about scenario assumptions, emission activities, and carbon footprint calculations, including emissions related to electricity, liquefied petroleum gas, packaging materials, fertilizers, etc., as well as emissions from distribution and sales, usage stage, and waste disposal stage scenario assumptions, ultimately calculating the emissions per unit of product. After a third-party verification agency conducts data verification and issues a verification statement, one can apply to the Ministry of Environment for a carbon footprint label for tea products.


Other questions about the carbon footprint of tea?

Q: Which stage of tea products has a higher proportion of carbon footprint?

The carbon footprint proportions vary depending on different countries' tea garden management, manufacturing methods, use and disposal scenario assumptions, carbon footprint coefficients for fuels and electricity, and differences in manufacturing stages for various tea types (such as black tea, green tea, partially fermented tea). Therefore, the stage with a higher carbon footprint proportion may differ by region and tea type.

Q: Do different tea consumption methods also create different carbon footprints?

Tea consumption methods indeed affect the carbon footprint. Most studies assume consumers use boiling hot water to brew tea leaves, but cold brewing would result in a different carbon footprint. Western research shows that black tea with milk has a higher carbon footprint, while in Taiwan, hand-shaken drinks with various ingredients would make calculations even more complex.

Q: Can't tea plantations absorb some carbon dioxide?

Tea plantations can absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Research on green tea from mainland China includes calculations of carbon sequestration by tea plantations, which can reduce overall carbon emissions and lower the carbon footprint per unit of product. However, calculating the exact carbon sequestration of tea plantations requires more rigorous methodology.

Q: Does a carbon footprint label add value to tea products?

The impact of carbon footprint labels on adding value to tea products is not straightforward. Different tea garden operations and tea factory models, as well as items excluded when calculating carbon footprints, can all lead to differences in the final tea carbon footprint. For example, high mountain tea may have a higher carbon footprint, mainly due to the long distance of material transportation and high emissions during the transportation stage. However, because of differences in calculation methods among various operators, it is inappropriate to judge the quality of tea products based solely on the carbon footprint. It's important to note that tea carbon footprints need to be verified by third-party verification agencies before applying for a carbon footprint label from the Ministry of Environment, which represents a significant cost for businesses.

歡迎聯繫TRIT討論

The carbon footprint of tea - What are the carbon emissions when you brew a cup of tea ? Read More »

三井合名會社與日治中期後的製茶工場

清領時期臺灣開港通商後,烏龍茶產業在臺北開始崛起,福爾摩沙烏龍(Formosa oolong)創造茶葉外銷的奇蹟,帶動北臺灣的政治與經濟轉型。當然,臺灣北部的茶產業的榮景也延續到了日治時期,時至今日還能看到日治時期所建立的老茶廠,最著名的不外乎是由農林公司經營的大溪老茶廠,其前身是角板山工場(圖1),而如果回溯過往這個老茶場的歷史,必定要提及三井合名會社,也同時一覽當時三井合名會社在日治時期的製茶工場。

圖1. 1926年設立的大溪郡角板山工場,現為大溪老茶廠,位於今日桃園三民。當時工場面積1700坪,茶園面積約500公頃,紅茶年產量60萬磅。

甲午戰爭臺灣割日後,於烏龍茶外銷主要掌控在英美的洋行手上,所以日本政府大力扶植日本商社與洋行競爭茶葉出口,在官方有計畫的支持下,臺灣茶葉貿易的株式會社出現,最大的兩大商社是「三井」(Mitsui & Co., LTD)與「野澤組」(Nosawa & Co.),尤其以三井外銷量最大,其也在北臺灣發展大型製茶工場,這也就是本文章討論的三井合名會社。

圖2. 三井在雜誌上的福爾摩沙茶廣告
圖3. 三井在美國的廣告

日本政府接手臺灣時,日商的三井物產株式會社在1896年於大稻埕港邊街設立臺北支店,專門經營茶葉、樟腦、稻米、砂糖等物產的出口。1909年三井家族成立「三井合名會社」,並在臺北設立總部「臺灣出張所」,其在日治時期除開發臺灣林業資源,也進行大規模茶葉生產與貿易。1908年三井合名會社首先在海山郡設立海山茶場,一開始以生產烏龍茶、包種茶為主,後來又建立8座大型製茶工場,其中7座屬於新式機械製茶工場,1座為傳統式的製茶工場。

1920年代三井合名會社陸續建立其他製茶工場,由於烏龍茶外銷衰退,臺灣茶的出口逐漸轉為生產包種茶與紅茶外銷。新式機械製茶工場更有利於紅茶的製造,包括萎凋室、機械是揉捻機、甚至還有乾燥機。三井合名會社建造的第二座茶場是大豹工場,面積將近2000坪,茶園面積約600公頃,紅茶年產量65萬磅,為當時東亞最大型的新式製茶工廠。(圖4)

1923年於臺北州文山郡石碇庄設立乾溝工廠,屬於傳統的舊式製茶工場,採用手動機械製造,因此單日製茶產量少,紅茶年產量最少僅10萬磅(工場面積210坪,茶園面積約100公頃)。同年接受臺灣拓殖製茶株式會社委託管理位於新竹州的苗栗郡三叉工場(圖5)與大溪郡銅鑼圈工場。隔年,1924年設立的臺北州海山郡大寮工場(圖6),為大豹工場的分場。1926年,往南在新竹州大溪郡建立角板山工場(圖1),也是大溪老茶廠的前身。在臺北州與新竹州地區的大豹工場、大寮工場與角板山工場是當時產量前三大的新式製茶工場。後來,1928年在臺北州文山郡設立磺窟工場(圖7)

圖4. 大豹位於大漢溪支流三峽溪中上游地帶,即現今新北市三峽南部大板根附近,古地名為插角。1900年左右日本人進入開發山林資源,而後日本總督府進行「理蕃政策」,在經過與泰雅族一系列的激烈交戰後佔領大豹社,隨後三井合名會社進入此地區開發茶園。
圖5. 三叉工場面積900坪,茶園面積約360公頃,紅茶年產量35萬磅。
圖6. 大寮工場面積800坪,茶園面積約200公頃,紅茶年產量25萬磅。
圖7. 磺窟工場面積700坪,茶園面積約300公頃,紅茶年產量30萬磅,位於今日新店區一帶。
圖7. 龜山工場面積450坪,茶園面積約200公頃,紅茶年產量25萬磅,位於今日新北市新店區龜山里。

由以上大型製茶工場的老照片,再加上茶場周圍遍佈的數百公頃茶園,就可以想像三井合名會社當時在臺灣紅茶的生產規模。三井合名會社建立的 8 座茶場工場與茶園,可以說是日治時期三井成功外銷臺灣紅茶的基礎,日後發展出與立頓紅茶「Lipton」競爭的日東紅茶「Nittoh 」,想要藉此攻入國際的紅茶市場,臺灣的紅茶在日本政府大力扶持與國際行銷之下,在世界紅茶的競爭中佔有一席之地,也曾有一段風光的歲月。

二戰後 1945 年中華民國政府接收臺灣,大量開始接收日本在臺產業,數個日本株式會社合併成立「臺灣省茶業公司」,隨後改隸屬於「臺灣農林股份有限公司」之下的茶業分公司,三井合名會社管轄的這些製茶工場與茶葉貿易的事業單位,也就一併撥交給農林公司管理。在二戰期間雖然台灣茶外銷大減,但戰後紅茶外銷量又持續增長,甚至超越日治時期的外銷量,除了農林公司的製茶單位之外,也有其他民營茶葉工廠的努力,那又是另一段臺灣茶業發展的故事了。

參考資料
1. 臺灣銀行。”臺灣之茶”。1949。
2. 三井の茶業。(製茶工場圖片來源,作者翻攝重置)
3.Ukers, William H., All About Tea. (New York: The Tea and Coffee Trade Journal Co.,1935), vol.1
4.The Tea & Coffee Trade Journal (三井廣告圖片)

三井合名會社與日治中期後的製茶工場 Read More »

30秒冷泡茶的秘密?如何低溫快速萃取茶湯!

冷泡茶通常會喝來比較甘甜、清爽,不過製作冷泡茶的時間大概要將茶葉原葉浸泡在水中,並靜置在冰箱6至8小時才能夠享用。如果是在炎炎夏日,用熱水泡茶在加冰塊降溫簡直多此一舉,你怎麼能忍受那幾個小時等待冰箱中的冷泡茶,一定想即刻想飲用沁涼消暑的茶飲?關於低溫萃取茶湯的方法非常簡單,只有有一些器具在家裡即可自己試試看。

30秒冷泡茶的秘密?如何低溫快速萃取茶湯! Read More »

梅山可能是台灣南部最早具規模的茶產區?

有人說台灣南部最早種茶的地區是滿州鄉,也就是現在港口茶的產區,不過一直以來港口茶的產量並沒有很多,在清領末期北台灣烏龍茶賺取大量外匯後,也有人想到南部嘗試種茶,不過最終因為品質不佳,沒有在南部大量開墾種茶,絕大部分的茶區都分佈在今日台中以北的地區,南部雖有零星種植卻無法形成具規模的茶產區。

1895年台灣割日,福爾摩沙烏龍茶正處於的巔峰年代,從日本總督府的1899年的調查數據可以看出台灣茶區的分佈絕大部分都在臺北、宜蘭與桃園,也有擴張到較為南方的新竹與苗栗地區。

可以觀察到日治初期中部與南部的行政區臺中縣與臺南縣,也出現面積較小的茶圃,可以注意紅字的沙連堡、沙連下堡,大約是今日南投日月潭地區,而更南邊的台南縣有一個叫「打猫東頂堡」的地區也有少量的產茶,這裡是哪裡呢?

大約是今日嘉義縣古坑鄉、梅山鄉、大林鎮境內:

後來打猫東頂堡的確在日治中期發展成為一個南部小規模的產區,在1935年出版的ALL ABOUT TEA書籍的地圖中,顯示「水沙連」與「打猫東頂堡」分別是中部與南部的茶區。雖然滿洲的植茶歷史早於梅山地區,但南部真正形成茶葉生產規模的應該是梅山茶區。

紅圈處為今日嘉義縣古坑、梅山、大林地區;紅圈的西北方為南投縣日月潭茶區。陰影處為茶區,大多集中在臺北、桃園、新竹;中央黑點處為山脈名稱
All About Tea, Volume 1
by Ukers, William H. (William Harrison) 1935

梅山可能是台灣南部最早具規模的茶產區? Read More »

茶葉萎凋有何意義?

「萎凋」,對於大部分人來說,是一個文謅謅的陌生名詞,而茶葉萎凋在製茶師傅的口中稱為「走水」,想必是與茶葉的水分有關係,如果把兩個詞彙一同聯想,就很好理解茶葉在這時發生了什麼事。簡單來說,當採摘下的茶葉,組織內的水分逐漸散失後,會有種枯萎凋零的狀態,就好像植物太久沒有澆水,枝葉下垂無精打采的樣子。那為什麼茶葉生產加工時,需要讓茶葉萎凋呢?

茶葉萎凋有何意義? Read More »